Body Language and Behaviour of a Dog

Learn to “read” dog

Understanding dog body language

Anyone who has raised children or spent a good deal of time with them can tell you that you get as much information from watching their bodies as you can by listening to their words. The same is true for dogs of all ages! Understanding dog body language is key to avoiding common problems and mistakes. Dog body language is a bit trickier to read, as you need to understand the canine species and their pack rituals before you can truly comprehend the many signs and symbols they give.

Cute or not?

What some find cute can be the next step towards dominance!  “He’s licking me, he must like me!”, more likely it means, either the tuna sandwich you had for lunch is still evident on your hands and face or depending on the posture that is going with the licking, he’s submitting or dominating.  If he’s licking at the corners of your mouth, he could want you to regurgitate for him! 

It’s important to try to understand what your dog is saying with his body.  It’s quite fascinating to watch, especially when you read your dog correctly and avoid an accident in the house, or the attack on the cat, etc. 

Tammy Murray

Puppy behaviour

Behaviour goes hand in hand with body language, and the stages of puppy behaviour closely mirror the stages of a child’s life, only accelerated.  When you receive your puppy at 8 weeks old their bodies are still not quite capable of making it through the night without needing a bathroom break.  Just like children of 4 and 5 years old, they need to relieve themselves sometime in the night.  If your pup is in a crate, he will let you know by crying or whining.  If he’s loose in the house, or confined to a small area, you will know by the mess in the morning.  For ease of housebreaking and the safety of your pup, it is recommended that your puppy be crated overnight. 

Mid-night puppy potty breaks

Shouldn’t last more than a week or two

When he does cry in the middle of the night, take him directly outside (ON A LINE) to his bathroom place and stay with him until he goes.  Use your command and praise him immediately when he goes.  If he’s had a bowel movement before bed, likely he won’t need another one until morning, but give him a moment or two to decide.  If he heads back to the house, or begins to play, take him back inside and put him back to bed.  He may protest this with more whining or crying, but you know his needs have been met, you must stay firm and ignore it.  He will settle down again.  This stage should last a week, maybe two at the most. 

Two crates are better than one!

Some puppies will mess in their crates, and then scream about it.  Using towels in pup’s crate to begin with is most efficient, pull the towel out, give the crate a quick wipe with Nature’s Miracle, and put another towel in for the rest of the night.  If you have a second crate, it’s even easier; you can pop him in that one and clean up in the morning. You will still need to take pup out for the opportunity to eliminate outdoors.

Let your puppy explore – safely

A healthy confident puppy will have a great desire to explore, and like children they do that with their whole body!  They will pick up anything and everything and taste and chew whatever they can reach.  You must observe and protect, prevent when necessary, toxic plants, electrical cords, open balconies, etc.  In the same token you can’t over protect!  If you do your pup will not develop properly, will lose confidence, be frightened to try and learn, and could turn to fear aggression.  Let your puppy try the stairs up and down with you there to assist if necessary, allow him to succeed, if he sits and whines, encourage him, boost him up a step, and then encourage him some more.  Plan for success, it takes a bit of time, but it’s essential for the future of your puppy.

As your pup’s confidence grows, so too will his independence.  He will begin to take longer to respond to your commands and wishes.  He will go farther from you, faster!  This is where your longline really earns its place in your arsenal of tools.  You can allow your pup to wander and explore, confident in the knowledge that you still have control.  Remember that just as in children you can squash their natural enthusiasm by being overly dominant and controlling.  You must be the “alpha” in the pack, but over dominating will create an overly submissive, fearful dog.  Your goal for your pup should be that he grows into a confident, happy adult with a bond based on love and respect, not fear! 

Remember your puppy is a dog

Not a baby in a fur coat

On the swing side of things, if you are too permissive, your pup will walk all over you and challenge for pack leadership.  This can be disturbing, and dangerous!  In our house, we own the toys, the treats, the food and dishes, and the rug or pillow he sleeps on.  The dog owns nothing!  Our dogs are not treated like humans in fur coats, this we know from much experience with students and their problem dogs, creates dominance and possession issues in the household.  If I want to see what’s in my dog’s dish, I take the dish and look.  If he growls, or even stiffens, there is a firm reprimand waiting for him.  This is an exercise that should be practiced from the moment your pup arrives. 

Proof your puppy

No bad dogs

You should give and take any toy, treat, food or belonging that your dog has access to.  There should NEVER be an argument about it.  All family members should have the same right to take the dog’s “belongings”.  Imagine if this is allowed and your child, or grandchild happens to wander into your dog’s “space” while he’s chewing a bone??  Far too many dogs are put to death or given away for these types of problems, when very simple steps can be taken to teach and prevent the behaviour.  You should not live in fear of your dog.

As I mentioned earlier, obedience training can and should be started as soon as your pup has had his second vaccinations!  This is an opportunity to test your dog in many new situations, as well as begin the all-important socializing stage of his life!  Your pup will learn more in the first 6 months of his life than he will for the rest of it!  Don’t delay; start writing the book of your pup’s life!

As your dog gets older he will go through many stages on the road to adulthood.  He will go from the terrible twos to the terrible teens in a very short period! 

Just being a boy

For males, once the testosterone kicks in, so too can attitude.  He will begin to mark territory (leg-cocking), this can happen indoors and out!  His playing style will become more serious and can switch from play to aggression quite quickly.  Especially when playing with other dogs.  He may begin some dominant behaviour, try to assert himself over his pack; children, women, and other pets will be his first attempts, and if he has enough attitude may challenge the male figure of the house too.  If you are not planning to breed, or do any assertive type training with him (i.e. personal protection, Schutzhund, police work, etc.) then it is highly recommended that you neuter your pup once growth platelets are completed. Neutering can save you the headaches of all the related behaviours I’ve mentioned; as well the chances of your dog developing prostate cancer are almost completely eliminated.

Sugar and spice, and all things nice?

For females, the hormonal changes are subtler.  Some females can be quite dominant, have tendencies towards dog aggression etc.  However, this is not always related to hormones, and can be just the innate personality of your dog.  If you are not planning to breed your female, spaying is best done by the time they’ve reached 8-10 months of age. With females, spaying BEFORE they’ve had a heat is much less invasive, as the reproductive system is not fully developed.  Some vets charge less for the surgery if you spay prior to a heat cycle.  Spaying your female early almost completely eliminates the chances of your female developing breast or ovarian cancer.  Please do not buy into the myth that they make better pets if they’re allowed to have a litter of pups.  Not only is this not true, but usually the opposite is true!!  Many females become very protective and even suspicious of “pack” members when they have pups, this can ruin the special bond she had with her pack.

Behaviour and Body Language can be almost a book in itself.  I’ve barely touched on the basics here.  There is a lot of good reading out there and a lot of bad stuff too!  I will mention one book that is worthy of any puppy owner, regardless of how many pups you’ve had!  It is written by “The Monks of New Skete” and is called “The Art of Raising a Puppy.”  I know you will find some good information in it!